Halibut season is open, which means I have access to one of my favorite ingredients – halibut cheeks. If you’ve never eaten them before, you really should look for them; many chefs will use them in specials, and they can be requested from most decent fish mongers. Unlike a halibut filet, which has a firm but tender texture, cheeks are toned by their use in the body, which makes them chewy and interesting.
And it’s all about the texture: I like to make different sauces each time I enjoy them. For the first meal this season, I dredged the cheeks in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Knock the excess flour off; you don’t want a thick roux-style sauce. Then I browned the cheeks in olive oil and removed them from the pan. For the sauce I deglazed the pan with a French Chardonnay (no oak) and added lemon juice and capers. Just return the cheeks at the last minute. Easy. Another favorite is a tomato-saffron broth. Delicious.
Along the cheek theme – remember, it’s about the texture – I’m going to experiment with pork cheeks in the next few days. I had my first experience with them a few weeks ago at Cochon Restaurant in New Orleans. My idea is to deconstruct the hot dog, and create a combination of pork, mustard, onion and pastry elements. When I’m finished, I’ll make sure I post a description and photos. I think you’ll be surprised.
So, step outside the box and try these interesting economy cuts. They may not be popular, but they will definitely deliver a great dining experience.
There seem to be a bunch of recipes floating around which use this name, but I’m claiming the hard-core vodka space. It tastes like the real thing and will knock you on your ass.
3 parts Absolut vodka
1 part Cointreau
Splash of Navan cognac
Shake vodka and Cointreau vigorously with ice. In a very chilled martini glass, place Navan and swirl before discarding. Strain vodka into glass. Serve with orange twist.
This martini was crafted one evening at the original Atomic Cowboy, an art lounge in Maplewood, Missouri. You may change the name as appropriate. It’s a bittersweet flavor, reminiscent of grapefruit.
4 parts Absolut Citron
2 parts Orangina soda
1 part Campari
Shake until ice crystals form. Pour into a chilled glass. Garnish with lime or other fruit.
Haleakala Crater – at the top of Maui – is a lovely place to watch the sun rise, as evidenced by this little video I put together. If you decide to go, make sure and take your long underwear, because at ten thousand feet is can easily be in the mid-30′s. Once the sun is up, you might want to go tramping around the park, which is absolutely stunning.
Here’s a really cool video to watch today: a simulation of what it would be like to travel through a black hole (assuming you aren’t torn to individual atoms by the gravitational shearing.) Thanks to Jonathan Turley for noticing.
Need a fabulous drink idea that can be assembled in no time at all? I tried this vodka at the store yesterday, and was so pleased I bought a fifth.
Ku:l vodka is imported from Poland, and I’m told that it’s distilled five times. I don’t know if that statement is accurate, but the results are good: smooth, non-astringent, perfectly good over ice. And all for under $11!
So, for the perfect cocktail, follow these simple instructions: twist cap, pour into glass, add ice. For the flamboyant drinker, feel free to add a lemon twist or tomolive.
A bunch of us went to Rockit – a gastropub in Wrigleyville – last night. It was my idea, and I was pretty psyched about it. Sadly, the verdict was mixed, and even though I enjoyed my meal, it is not high on the list for a return trip.
The location is great, on Clark Street just north of Addison. That’s an easy walk for me, even in cold weather. Six of us had an 8:00p.m. reservation after cocktails. The inside of the place is dark, warm and pub-like, but there wasn’t anything that really stood out. It’s a young crowd that is loud.
The service was efficient and ample. Nothing mind-bending but, hey, it is a pub.
The food was what had me excited. More specifically, the menu looked great. This was pub food a level or two above your typical joint. Things like a lobster burger, truffle oil fries and lobster gnocchi catch your eye on the menu. The table ordered a variety, all the previously mentioned dishes and a side of mac & cheese to share. Like I said previously, the verdict was mixed.
My Rockit Burger – a Kobe beef patty with melted bried and medjool date aioli – was delicious. As it should have been for $19. It came with truffle oil fries. I found them full of flavor, although others at the table felt they were overpowering. My complaint is that, if you’re going to make truffle oil fries, you should use a Belgian frite – something that is crispy outside and very tender inside – instead of the straight-cut fries on my plate. The red onion brioche bun was delicious but a bit too buttery.
Laura had the lobster gnocchi and found it had a substantial portion of lobster meat. Unfortunately it was oily, and she didn’t finish it. Actually, Tom didn’t finish his, either.
Next up was the lobster burger. Lobster meat and shrimp paste. It sounded great but came out from the kitchen with a strong flavor (probably the shrimp paste.) Two at the table were wrapped to go.
So, the long and short of it is that Rockit failed to light our fuses despite the high prices. Great idea, great location, but the execution is not up to snuff.
I had lunch at Feed last Friday with my friend Paul. For those who aren’t interested in reading further, it totally rocked my world.
Feed is located in Humboldt Park, on the west side of Chicago, at the corner of California and Chicago Avenue. It’s not much more than a shack, with a counter between the short-order kitchen and a dining room of about twelve tables. The entire place reeks of 1958, right down to the jukebox and Formica-covered chrome tables. In addition to a few daily specials, a number of standards provide excellent munching.
Even though Feed specializes in chicken plates, I opted for the 1/3-pound burger. It’s served with fries and vinegar slaw, and I added bleu cheese. Not being able to control myself, I also ordered some collard greens. Big juicy burger on a Kaiser roll: check. Tender fries with a crispy exterior: check. Cole slaw with tart, light dressing: check. Southern-style collard greens: check. Oh, and the local root beer was creamy and flavorful.
Sadly, I skipped the one thing that I was excited about – red velvet cake. Feed makes it in-house, so I’m planning a return trip very soon. Watch this blog for a follow-up review.
This basic stock is very useful for a number of different vegan soups. In this incarnation, I roasted the cauliflower and garlic to create smoky, nutty tones.
Roasted Cauliflower Soup
by Michael Miles
Serves 12
1 head cauliflower, cut
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 medium Russet potatoes, peeled and diced
1 quart vegetable broth
1 quart water
1 yellow onion, peeled and diced
3 ribs celery, trimmed and chopped coarsely
2 Bay leaves
3 T fresh parsley, chopped
5 sprigs fresh thyme
1 t paprika
1 t salt
1/2 t dried marjoram
1/4 t white pepper
3 T miso paste
Olive oil
Preheat oven to 450F. Clean and cut the cauliflower into pieces and place in a roasting pan with the garlic and some olive oil. Season with salt. Roast for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower is browned.
Place chopped potatoes in a sauce pan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook until done. Drain and set aside.
In the meantime, place broth and water into a stockpot over medium heat. Add onion, celery, herbs and spices, cover and bring to a simmer. Add cauliflower and garlic after it is removed from the oven and continue to simmer another 20-30 minutes. Remove thyme stems and bay leaves.
In a blender, place some of the potato, the stockpot mixture and half of the miso paste. Puree until smooth. Set aside and repeat until done. Then return to the stockpot, bring back to temperature and taste for seasoning. For non-vegans, garnish with a touch of creme fraiche.
