Cheeky Monkey!
Halibut season is open, which means I have access to one of my favorite ingredients – halibut cheeks. If you’ve never eaten them before, you really should look for them; many chefs will use them in specials, and they can be requested from most decent fish mongers. Unlike a halibut filet, which has a firm but tender texture, cheeks are toned by their use in the body, which makes them chewy and interesting.
And it’s all about the texture: I like to make different sauces each time I enjoy them. For the first meal this season, I dredged the cheeks in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Knock the excess flour off; you don’t want a thick roux-style sauce. Then I browned the cheeks in olive oil and removed them from the pan. For the sauce I deglazed the pan with a French Chardonnay (no oak) and added lemon juice and capers. Just return the cheeks at the last minute. Easy. Another favorite is a tomato-saffron broth. Delicious.
Along the cheek theme – remember, it’s about the texture – I’m going to experiment with pork cheeks in the next few days. I had my first experience with them a few weeks ago at Cochon Restaurant in New Orleans. My idea is to deconstruct the hot dog, and create a combination of pork, mustard, onion and pastry elements. When I’m finished, I’ll make sure I post a description and photos. I think you’ll be surprised.
So, step outside the box and try these interesting economy cuts. They may not be popular, but they will definitely deliver a great dining experience.
